Amazing Morel Mushrooms in August in Baltimore

When's the last time you saw morels like this in Baltimore in August for fifteen bucks? That big one's five inches long, big as I've ever seen.


"This is the last of them," Ferial Welsh told me at The Mushroom Stand this past Sunday at Baltimore's Downtown Farmers Market. As far as I'd ever known, the morels were gone by the end of May. Apparently that's not the case in Oregon, where these came from. Last week the Mushroom Stand had fresh truffles from France with some fairly large ones going for $25. Maybe they had truffles this week as well, but not needing any, I didn't ask. Business was humming, and I didn't want to distract.

Knowing how to cook morels is extremely important. It's really quite simple as long as you keep them dry. Best to slice them in rounds about 1/3 inch thick and then simmer them in table cream until the cream thickens. Whatever you do, don't saute morels, as that robs them of their distinctive and delicious flavor. Properly prepared, fresh morels are a true delicasy.

Restaurant Du Jour Slated for Inner Harbor East

During his several years in Baltimore, Chef Joshau (pronounced Joshua) has has been a player with Truffles Catering, the Owl Bar, Tabrizi's, Casbah, Redfish, and most recently Night of the Cookers. Now he's moving forward with a new venture of his own. Less than a week ago, he was on the verge of nailing down a deal at a location in Mount Vernon when quite unexpectedly a new opportunity arose in the Inner Harbor East area. Now the deal's been sealed for a spot not far from Lemongrass and Tsunami. The specific address will become apparent once an outside mural is up. To be named Du Jour, the restaurant should prove to be quite interesting, certainly by Baltimore standards.

As its menu should demonstrate, Chef Joshau likes to do things his own way. He anticipates changing the menu every week to focus on what's freshest. "I'm dealing with small farms all across the U.S.," he says. "Everyone talks about going all local, but there's so much more out there than just what's being farmed in Maryland." When he informed that his fish would be shipped in from Honolulu, I inquired as to when they might have died. "Catch it Tuesday, have it here Wednesday by three O'clock," was the answer. "They ship it overnight, and the shipping is included in the cost of the fish."

From there, our discussion turned to a strain of chicken that Chef Joshau described as a potential candiate for being served raw as carpaccio. Though no suggestion was made that chicken carpaccio would be on Du Jour's menu, it was clear now that there would be some choices not available on other local menus.

Chef Joshau described the space that will house Du Jour as an old warehouse with a cement floor, cinderblock walls and industrial ceiling. He plans to stain the floor, and cover the walls with swirled stucco to be draped with a series of 15 foot runners bearing attached metal sconces. It will include a bar as well as a special accommodation for which Baltimore should be more than ready, namely a communal table, expected to seat 16.

Chef Joshau also operates a catering business called Agourmetsin, which specializes in "small boutique functions" for as many as 300 or as few as two. Once Du Jour opens, he hopes to expand further by offering cooking classes on Saturdays and opening Du Jour's kitchen during business hours to interested persons eager to learn about the operation of a professional kitchen.

Ambitious? Yes, but Chef Joshau has never been one to allow the moss to grow under his feet. Current economic conditions that have proved challenging to the restaurant business do not concern him. Using his own money as well as funds from couple of investors whom he described as "friends and people who love my cooking," Chef Joshau is confident of making it to opening night.

Chesapeake Hard Crabs Fried Up Spicy Hot

Fried Chilli Crabs: I've been doing this for three decades. The local food scene has changed during that time, enough perhaps, for a preparation like this to find its place in the Baltimore dining scene within a couple of years. Chilli crabs have long been extremely popular in Singapore and Malaysia. The Vietnamese favor a slightly milder version of fried crab, which is on the menu at some Vietnamese restaurants and not unlike the fried crab quarters one sometimes finds at local suburban Asian cafeterias. What's pictured above is entirely different and pleases my tastebuds even more than our Maryland steamed crabs.

In Singapore and Malaysia, of course, the species of crab used is obviously different than our Atlantic Blue crab. The meat, however, is much the same. Where do you think that more than 50 per cent of the crab meat consumed in Maryland comes from anyway? It's what Phillips Food, which is headquartered here in Baltimore, imports enough of from Indonesia to supply approximately 80 per cent of the US market.

My original recipe was from Charmaine Solomon's The Complete Asian Cookbook, which was published in 1976. The Essential Asian Cookbook, published in 1999 by Whitecap Books includes slightly different version. Recipes for chilli crabs vary, just as they do for "Maryland Steamed Crabs." With steamed crabs, the differences relate mostly to seafood seasoning; with fried chilli crabs, it's chilli sauce.

For perspective let me share a bit of personal history. Thirty years ago, I was a home improvement broker who happened to be an adventurous eater and home cook. At that time of my life, unless otherwise specified, "chilli sauce" could just as well be Heinz Chili Sauce when referred to in a cookbook as "chilli" sauce, especially when a recipe for shrimp on the same page specified "Chinese chilli sauce." As a Baltimore native of the era, I gave Heinz Chili Sauce the nod. Surprisingly it worked great, however different Heinz Chili Sauce might have been from what Ms. Solomon probably intended. This time, I used Yeo's Sweet Chilli Sauce from Malaysia, purchased at the Thai-Philippine market on Gorsuch Avenue in Waverly, because "sweet chilli sauce" was what the later Essential Asian Cookbook called for. It worked fine, but even so, next time, now more curious than ever, I'm going back to Heinz.

Here's the recipe:

FRIED CHILLI CRABS

2 live jumbo Maryland hard crabs

1/2 cup peanut oil

2 teaspoons freshly grated fresh ginger

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 fresh red chilli's, seeded and chopped

1/4 cup plain tomato sauce

1/4 cup chilli sauce---read about this above

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon salt

white rice

Wash crabs well, scrubbing away any mossy patches on the shell. Remove hard top shell, stomach bag and fibrous tissue, but reserve any fat or "mustard." With a cleaver, chop crab into 4 or 6 pieces. Heat a large wok or frying pan. Add oil and when the oil is very hot, fry the crab pieces until they change colour, turning them so they cook on all sides. As they begin to change colour, add any reserved fat or "mustard." Once colour has changed, remove to a plate. Turn heat to low and fry the ginger, garlic, and red chillies, stirring constantly, until they are cooked but not brown. Add the sauces, sugar, soy sauce, and salt, bring to a boil, and then return crabs to the wok or frying pan and allow to simmer in the sauce for 3 minutes, adding very little water if sauce reduces too much. Serve with white rice.

With credit for original inspiration to The Complete Asian Cookbook, by Charmaine Solomon, copyright 1976 Paul Hamlyn Pty. Ltd., published by McGraw Hill.

Mrs. Yi's Pimm's Cup Drink

Above is a Pimm's Cup concoction in a crystal beer mug substituting for a cup. Poured from a pitcher and with all the fruit, it could work as an alternative to Sangria. Mrs. Yi made up a batch to contribute to the Indian Food Bash last March in our Northeast Baltimore neighborhood. Mrs. Yi's Pimm's Cup was mentioned at the conclusion of the post that followed ending with the words "Stay tuned."

The hot weather is here, so it's time. To prepare a large pitcher, Mrs. Yi played with a recipe for preparing four individual glasses that originally appeared in a Cook's Magazine dating from 1987. Her intention was to multiply the called for ingredients, but what resulted proved to be new, different, and more pleasing to me than over a half dozen published techniques I've since experimented with. The reason, I believe, relates to all the extra fruit for which there's room when the quantity is enough to merit using a large pitcher.

The definitive ingredient is Pimm's Cup #1, which is gin-based and likely the only Pimm's Cup variety available in liquor stores---at least here in the Baltimore area. While the formula for Pimm's Cup #1 is a carefully and effectively guarded trade secret, recipes for making drinks with it are ubiquitous. Typically, one part of Pimm's Cup #1 is mixed with with five or six parts lemonade, Gingerale, 7-Up or a combination of lemonade and such a soft drink, then garnished with a cucumber spear and perhaps a slice of citrus and/or some mint. However done, it makes for a very refreshing drink, particularly in hot weather.

The recipe from which Mrs. Yi's version evolved was more elaborate but no trouble. It called for sqeezing 1/3 cup of fresh orange juice and two tablespoons of lime juice, combining these juices with 8 ounces of Pimm's Cup#1, a pint of Club Soda, and two teaspoons of sugar, pouring it all into four glasses bearing citrus slices and ice, then garnishing with a cucumber wedge, perhaps a slice of fruit, and/or a sprig of mint . That's a pretty good technique, but the result gets better when all these ingredients---and a bit more---are thrown into a pitcher.

Here's Mrs. Yi's recipe:

MRS. YI'S PIMM'S CUP

8 oranges

8 limes

1 cucumber

1 apple

1 lemon

2 tablespoons sugar.

1 bottle of Pimm's Cup #1

6 cups Club Soda

Squeeze enough of the oranges to yield 8 ounces of juice, discarding the squeezed oranges and saving those remaining. Squeeze enough of the limes to yield 2 1/2 ounces of juice, discarding squeezed limes and saving those remaining. Cut remaining unsqueezed oranges and limes, the lemon, the apple, and the cucumber into slices and throw into a large pitcher. Mix the orange juice, lime juice, Pimm's Cup#1 and Club Soda, and sugar together and add to the pitcher with the fruit. Let stand for at least a few minutes and then pour into glasses or cups over ice.

Best of the Beach

Pictured above is corn on the cob, from Agave Mexican Grill and Tequila Bar in Lewes, Delaware, at 137 Second Street, along the town's tastefully preserved main strip. Awash in chipotle mayonaisse and crumbled Mexican cheese, it was first parboiled, then finished off with five minutes or so on the grill. The menu lists it for $3.

Having not made it to any established and dependable meccas like the Back Porch in Rehoboth, this was the culinary highlight of seven days at the beach. I wouldn't have known about Agave except for the scoop in Baltimore's recent Style Magazine. The space is small, modern, upscale, and dark with ten seats at the bar and about as many tables. A little after five p.m. seemed a good time to be there before things got busy after a reasonably sunny and pleasant beach afternoon. Because later commitments once again made things all too busy on my end, time limited me to this one light and delicious snack. A large $10 house margarita made with El Jimador proved perfect for washing it down. I share Washington Post writer Fritz Hahn's assessment of the same concoction as "the finest I've ever had at the beach," My only disappointment was no mezcal presence amidst more than seventy tequilas on hand.

So much for one week at the beach, though more could follow in the next Unique Culinary Adventures podcast. On the downside, my dining out experiences this week produced more than their share of abominable meals---and drinks---as compared to past summers. My conclusion is that 2008 is a tough year at the beach for a lot of restaurants, and that many of them probably wont make it. I believe however, that Agave, could prove to be one of but a very few new ones destined to become a hotspot and go on to pass the test of time.

The Culinary 4300 Block of Northeast Baltimore's Harford Road

The trend used to be that artists of limited financial wherewithal would "discover" an urban neighborhood. Their presence tended to make the area more "hip." Revitalization often followed.

In much the same manner, young entrepreneurs adapted the commercial strip lining the east side of the 4300 block of Harford Road in Northeast Baltimore. Their businesses were about food and drink. They made the neighborhood more "hip," and revitalization followed.

A good case could be made for crediting the beginnings of it all to Koco's Pub at 4301 Harford Road. That was approximately a decade ago, somewhere between when Koco's began serving its humoungous lump crab cakes, and the local media took notice.

In 2002, Chameleon Cafe at 4341 Harford Road, was next. Co-owner and chef Jeff Smith brought classic French technique to the preparation of regional dishes that changed with the seasons. His wife Brenda played host, maintained the books, and curated displays of art on the walls. The art changed as frequently as the menu. Thus the name Chameleon. Soon after it opened, Chameleon became a destination spot for gourmands from throughout the Baltimore area. In the process, a new and continuing citywide positive awareness of the neighborhood was created, and they just keep coming
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With a good corner bar famous for its crab cakes at one end of the block and a fine dining hotspot at the other, the Red Canoe Coffeehouse and Childrens Bookstore opened in between in 2004 at 4337 Harford Road to the benefit of all concerned. The Red Canoe quickly established itself as a magnet for residents from a cluster of surrounding communities, none of which had previously enjoyed either the benefits of a coffee house or a place to go out for lunch (which Red Canoe soon began serving) where the presence of their kids was encouraged. In little time, the Red Canoe had become a friendly local meeting place, hangout for residents of all the neighboring communities, and a child literacy lightning rod.

Things got even better when Zeke's Coffee set up shop shortly thereafter around the corner at 3003 Montebello Terrace. It conributed an enormous selection of world class coffee beans as well as a roaster. Zeke's soon expanded its presence and became yet another citywide phenomenon. Proof is in the omnipresent lines at Baltimore's Downtown Farmers Market, 32nd Street Farmers Market, and the Mill Valley Garden Center.

More was yet to come with the arrival in 2006 ofAlabama Barbecue Company at 4311 Harford Road. With just a couple tables and a small counter inside, everything served (including potato chips) was and continues to be prepared on premises. The meat is slow-cooked over hardwood charcoal and logs. Alabama Barbecue goes to great lengths to distinguish itself from other barbecue joints. It uses an Alabama white sauce on its pulled chicken and a raspberry glaze for its ribs. The rich deserts have been described in reviews as "irresistible.

Who knows what's next? Most recently, its' been small retail businesses, namely a knitting store, a candy store, and a jewelry store. The influence has now spread to several Harford Road commercial corridors a few blocks north. The creative fare at Clementine, 5402 Harford Road has been packing them in now three meals a day for several months. You can also read about the soon to open Hamilton Tavern and The Parkside Fine Food and Spirits in earlier posts here at Unique Culinary Adventures.

Pushing the Envelope in Alexandria, VA

Having not visited Alexandria, Virginia, in years, the prospect doing so beckoned. Last Friday, on the spur of the moment, a three hour opportunity arose in mid-afternoon. My appetite was ravenous, and lunch hour had passed. An evening commitment in Baltimore precluded dinner there.

Most of my time was spent walking and taking in Alexandria's historic waterfront, architecture, and restaraunts, especially those serving at this hour. The three block stretch of King Street between my parking space and the waterfront offered numerous choices. Within minutes, I was seated at an upscale Thai spot and had ordered from its reasonably appealing menu a whole rainbow trout stuffed with herbs and lemongrass. With two minutes of additional walking, I would have chosen instead to try the fast Ethiopian fare at the Torpedo Factory Food Pavillion near waters edge.

More on my mind, however, was a different kind of African influence I'd recently read about in conjunction with Farrah Olivia on the plaza by Balducci's at 600 Franklin Street. The article was about its Ivory Coast born owner/chef, Morou Ouattera, whose culinary sensibilities had a reputation for penetrating a lot of fringes. Despite the need to be back in Baltimore by 7:30, I was determined to at least have a look.

At 5:30, when Farrah Olivia opened its doors for dinner, I took my seat at the small bar near the entrance. Having been walking for two hours, I was eager to check out the menu over a refreshing cocktail. Any lack of a cocktail menu became a non-issue once the bartender had mixed and served me a glorious mojito. From its main menu, I would describe Farrah Olivia's cuisine as lending an African perspective to a broader Modern European/American genre in a unique and adventurous manner. Among entrees, the most expensive was "lamb chop/plantain loaf/white mint *caviar*/palm fruit bbq" for $34. Least expensive was "soft-shell crab/pickled tapioca/melon fruits/bok choy mustard," the smaller portion (presumably one soft-shell) for $18.

Time restricted me to but one quick treat: the gazpacho pictured above. It was listed as "painted gazpacho/curried eggplant/vine ripe tomato/cucumber." Checking Farrah Olivia's menu on the web several days later, I observed a "painted soup/silky chestnuts/ginger squash/beet cider," but no such gazpacho, so who knows? Regardless, after visiting Farrah Olivia's website and searching out some of the numerous reviews, anyone should have a pretty good idea of what to expect.

For me, it's a matter of when, not if, to make a special trip back to Alexandria and further experience what Farrah Olivia is about. Should its fourteen course tasting on Friday and Saturday nights with reservations required be excessive, also offered are five and seven course tastings for $55 and $75 respectively. I only wish Farrah Olivia were closer by and wonder how Baltimore would respond to the likes of it.

Boiled Maryland Hard Crabs

As a third generation aficionado of Maryland steamed crabs, I decided to boil up rather than steam this dozen after purchasing them for $18.00 at Baltimore's downtown farmers market. Accustomed to enjoying my hard crabs doused with Old Bay and steamed over a boiling mixture of beer and vinegar, I was ready to try a different approach.

Hard crabs are boiled by default in every other state I'm aware of but Delaware. The other exception is where some Asian restaurants around the country cook them in a well-oiled wok or large frying pan with various spices, vegetables, herbs, and condiments. The mix can vary from ethnicity to ethnicity, and restaurant to restaurant.

At the four or five regional spots where I've enjoyed boiled hard crabs in Virgina and North Carolina, melted butter, vinegar and Old Bay were served on the side for dipping the meat. For me these enhancements proved as critical to the experience of eating boiled crabs as Old Bay is to enjoying our steamed crabs here in Maryland. Discretion is important when ordering boiled crabs. A lot of cooks boil them til they're mushy. Some restaurants (I know this happens a lot in Louisiana) boil all the crabs they expect to sell over a period of time and then refrigerate them for long enough (for more than 24 hours) to lose the delectable freshness that's definitive of hard crabs as we know them here in Maryland. Often they're later reheated, sometimes enough so to further increase the likelihood they'll be mushy. Heaven forbid that any Maryland establishment would even think of trying to pull something like this.

Whether boiled or steamed, freshness and cooking time are the most important considerations. In Maryland, when purchasing cooked hard crabs, we know to expect they'll be steamed, their shells coated with a significant quantity of Old Bay. For any Marylander interested in trying them another way, here's my recommendation:

BOILED HARD CRABS

Fill a deep pot with water to whatever level the number of crabs to be boiled would pile up to reach, but don't put them in. Add salt and any desired seasoning to the water. Bring water to a boil. Once at full boil, drop in your crabs (alive, of course) head first. When the water returns to a full boil, leave uncovered and cook for an additional six to twelve minutes, depending upon the size of the crabs, until their top shells have turned a bright red. Remove and place immediately under cold water, throwing on some ice perhaps, to stop the cooking process. Accompany with separate small containers of melted butter, vinegar, and seafood seasoning.

Next to Open on Harford Rd: Hamilton Tavern

When it comes to exciting new places opening up in Baltimore, Harford Road through Hamilton and Lauraville has become the hottest area in town. The next spot to look for sometime in July is the Hamilton Tavern at 5517 Harford Road at the corner of Wisteria Avenue. Don't expect it to be like the Hamilton Tavern that previously occupied the space.

The owner of the both the building and now its liquor license, which permits carry-out, is Tom Creegan. He is also one of five owners as well as a working partner at Brewers Art. Assisting him with major, fast-moving, and on-track renovations is his wife Felicia who will oversee the business end of the new establishment. The chef will be Sarah Thall, formerly of Maggie Moore's. Ron Foster will be in charge of the front end.

"We've always wanted a local bar," says Creegan, "with a little bit better selection of beer." Resurrection Beer, made famous at Brewers art, will be one of five North American craft brews to be offered on tap. Also available will be spirits, a list of oft-changing relatively inexpensive wines, and a menu offering what Creegan describes as "upscale comfort food ---kind of like what you remember your grandmother making for dinner, but with a little twist."

Wide sliding windows are being installed near the main entrance on Harford Road. Upon entering, the bar will be to the left facing the north wall. Lining the wall to the right and facing several small tables will be curved wooden benches salvaged from Camden Station. Original wooden floors previously buried by six layers of tile and linoleum are in the midst of restoration. The walls will be plaster, the ceiling pressed tin. Beyond the bar and up a couple of steps will be a mezzanine dining area enclosed by railing.

The Creegans are also thinking about the possiblilty of occasionally offering acoustic folk music, blues, or jazz on slow nights. However, it will probably be another year before they seriously explore entertainment options pending renovations of a large room on the second floor into additional dining space.

During a period when the restaurant industry and a lot of trendy neighborhoods are feeling the pinch, the new Hamilton Tavern is well positioned along this rapidly emerging destination stretch of Harford Road. What's behind it all, I ask? "A lot of young people have moved to the area in the last five years, and there's all this energy and youth," Tom Creegan explains. "We all know each other and have talked for years about making this kind of thing happen rather than having to drive to Fells Point, Belvedere Square or Towson. It finally reached the point where everyone took the plunge."

Friday Dinner at Lithuanian Hall

If you're interested in dining at a Lithuanian restaurant, there's only one place in Baltimore to have the experience. It's at Lithuanian Hall, 851-853 Hollins Street in West Baltimore on Fridays from 6 - 9. I first stumbled upon the space while attending a"Night of a Thousand Elvis's" event taking place on the floor above. The square bar, dining area and dance floor beyond it, with their lights and decorations define an unadulterated late 1950's environment.


Although, the official hours are 6 -9, most diners are gone by shortly after 8, which is when Mrs. Yi and I arrived. It's a good idea to call first (410-685-5787) to make certain dinner is being served. The web site notes "every Friday evening with few exceptions."

This isn't really a restaurant, but a private club whose members share Lithuanian bloodlines. By all appearances, volunteers from within the organization contribute to making these Friday night dinners possible. Despite a "members only" sign, anyone whose presence is perceived as non-threatening can count on being politely received. The food is the real deal. I began with a $2.00 bowl of the beetroot and cabbage soup (borsch) requesting light on the sour cream. It was most pleasing. Mrs. Yi and I also split a similarly priced appetizer "snack" of sausages, cheese and black bread, served cold. We would have refrained had we expected our main courses to be as generous as they were.

For an entree, I chose the baked carp with boiled potatoes and salad. The carp was pleasing enough, although I would have liked to know something of how it made its way from the water to my plate. While the boiled potatoes were unremarkable, I liked the basic salad of lettuce, tomato and green onion tossed and wilted in its creamy dressing as much as any tossed salad served me at a Baltimore restaurant since Marconi's closed.

The pork country style ribs that Mrs. Yi ordered would have suited me better. They were straight forward, delectable, and similarly accompanied with boiled potatoes and that wonderful salad. We washed everything down with cans of Utenos Lithuanian beer, which was light and refreshing. By the time a plate of Lithuanian pastry appeared for desert, we were much too full to partake.

Upon leaving, we were happy we'd chosen to dine here. Nothing else in Baltimore is quite like it.